WHERE WE LIVED IN
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Our Accommodations & An Important Note About Altitude
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Cuenca is at 8,400 feet above sea level and you will need time to acclimatize to the altitude. What does altitude have to do with accommodations? Read On....
Our research made us aware of the potential challenges in adapting to life at high altitudes. So, we planned to spend our first week in Ecuador in the capital, Quito at 9,100 feet. Following the recommendations for allowing our bodies to adapt to the altitude, we got plenty of rest, drank lots of water and took it easy for the first week. We then flew to Cuenca, thinking that, after spending a week following all the recommendations for acclimatizing - particularly at a higher altitude, we'd be fine. Following the recommendations for allowing our bodies to adapt to the altitude, we got plenty of rest, drank lots of water and took it easy for the first week. |
We then flew to Cuenca, thinking that, after spending a week following all the recommendations for acclimatizing - particularly at a higher altitude, we'd be fine.
Then reality kicked in. Our first apartment in Cuenca's Historic District was on the third floor of a walk-up. the first time we climbed the stairs, we thought we were about to die. It was like trying to breathe through jello. Our chests hurt and it took ten minutes to finally catch our breath. We got used to the thin air and climbed the stairs several times a day without breaking a sweat. But, that took another week or so. Plan and take your time. It may take longer than you think to acclimatized for life in the Andes. |
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Our first apartment was on Gaspar Sangurima near Estevez de Toral in the Historic District, eight blocks (7 minute walk) to Parque Calderon.
As a Unesco World Heritage Site, Cuenca's Historic District adheres to the architectural tradition of building right out to the sidewalk. Buildings are cheek to jowl and as tradition would have it our apartment compound was behind a gated and locked wall. We were across the street from the monastery Hemanitas de los Ancianos Desamparados Hagar Cristo Rey. Directly across from our apartment was a two-story statue of Christ, mounted on the monastery wall, blessing passers-by. The monastery was huge, taking up an entire city block. Each morning we were awakened at 8 o'clock by the monastery's bells, calling the faithful to early morning service. |
Reg on Gaspar Sangurima entering our apartment compound. Two doors provided access to the courtyard of our building - a smaller door for pedestrians and large double doors for vehicles.
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Once inside, we found ourselves in a spacious courtyard used for residents' parking. Historically, this area was used to stable horses and carriages.
Once again, Cuenca successfully keeps the feel of a traditional 18th century Spanish city in the Americas. Rent for our modern three bedroom-two bath, fully furnished apartment (including washer and dryer) was $589.00 per month. Wif-fi internet access was included. One problem, there wasn't any wi-fi when we arrived. |
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If you spend much time in Ecuador you will hear the term "mañana", with regards to getting things done. You'll come to understand "mañana" doesn't necessarily mean tomorrow, it just means not today.
The owner of the apartment tried very hard for a month to get the wi-fi service that had been promised to us. We made it clear that if she couldn't provide the service within a month we would have to move. At the end of our first month, with a fond farewell to the monastery bell ringer across the street we moved out of the Historic District. |
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Seventy five percent of Cuenca's population live outside the historic centre. The newer districts feature a mixture of the city's first suburbs plus many modern mid-rise condominiums.
Our second residence was just outside of the Old city, in a six-year-old condominium on Avenida Ordonez Lasso, in an area nick-named "Gringo Gulch" because of the large ex -pat community. |
To continue exploring Cuenca, click one of the links below.