The World Is Waiting

“Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.”
Miriam Beard

Belo sur Mer, Madagascar

Long before we built BlueTopaz and set off on our current adventure, Teri and I decided that we wanted to see the world - the world we dreamed about as children - a world before microwave ovens, satellite dishes and a McDonald’s on every corner. We wanted to be more than just tourists. Our objective was to, in a small way, experience life in other cultures.

Independent Travel

The pursuit of our childhood dreams lead us to “Independent Travel”. What is Independent Travel?
Simply put; it is ‘taking control of all aspects of your journey’, i.e., deciding where you’re going, planning your schedule, making your own reservations, booking your flight, train, bus or other transportation, accommodations and encouraging cultural contact while leaving yourself open to the unexpected.

The result is that, over the years, we have explored destinations near and far. We have sailed BlueTopaz in the Chesapeake Bay, the Bahamas and the Caribbean; travelled throughout Europe, Egypt, Madagascar, Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands, Guatemala, Hawaii and the Pacific Coast of Mexico.

Our travels, often take us off the beaten path. We sail to areas with minimal population or services and on land, to places where the locals rarely see outsiders. We use public transportation wherever and whenever it’s practical and safe, eat in neighbourhood restaurants and stay in local accommodations.

After crossing a river in Madagascar on a pontoon raft powered by a 25 hp outboard, the locals make sure we disembark safely.
Quito, Ecuador: The train itself made our journey through the Avenue of the Volcanoes that much more memorable.

Keeping Local

A month of travel in Egypt, took us the length of the Egyptian Nile, from Abu Simbal, near the Sudanese boarder to the Mediterranean Sea and then, west, across the desert from Alexandria to the Siwa Oasis, near the Libyan boarder. We made all of our arrangements: • decided how we would spend each day; • bought our tickets at the train and bus stations; • travelled by plane, train, local bus, hot-air balloon, felucca and donkey cart; • selected hotels on the basis of location, historical interest and proximity to areas of interest; • stayed in a seven hundred year old Shali, mud brick fortress, a Nubian guest house and hotels over looking the Luxor Temple, and Alexandria harbour.

Preparation

Independent travel does require preparation. With this type of travel, you find yourself engaged with the locals for everything from getting directions to buying produce in the markets. We study the basics of the language and familiarize ourselves with local customs, make a point to know how and when to say please and thank you, whether or not haggling with merchants is expected and how to show your appreciation for a kindness. Conversely, you should know what is considered rude. For example, pointing with the index finger is considered rude in Madagascar and exposing the soles of your shoes to someone is an insult in Egypt.

Up Close and Personal

While this approach requires time and effort, the reward is an opportunity for up-close and personal perspectives on the places you visit. Being on our own timetable allows us often to be in the right place at the right time and come away with truly remarkable experiences.

Even in a tourist mecca, like Hawaii, unique cultural experiences can be had for the independent traveler. A conversation with a Tahitian dancer we met while walking on an out-of-the-way beach, resulted in an invitation to a "locals only" performance. She was a member of a visiting dance troupe from Tahiti and the performance was a thank you to the people of Hana for hosting them. It was an evening we will not soon forget and we felt honored to be there.

An Unexpected Kindness

One that provided a unique and timely political insight: We arrived early at the Ramses Railway Station in Cairo, to buy our tickets and be at track-side when our connection for Luxor pulled in. Unlike Second and Third Class, there was no line at the First Class ticket window. So, we had lots of time on our hands before our train arrived. We’d just settled in for a long wait on a hard, straight backed bench, when a tall distinguished looking gentleman in an immaculate grey suit, approached us. He introduced himself as the manager of the train station, and, invited us to have tea, with him, and wait for our connection in his office. Instructing a porter to collect our bags, he escorted us to his spacious office, filled with ornate 18th century furnishings. For the next hour we sat having tea and a surprisingly candid, discussion of Egyptian politics. This was 2007, just a couple of years before the advent of the “Arab Spring”.

A Sailor's Opportunity of a Lifetime

While in Aswan, we decided to go for a sail on the Nile. We cruised the dock inspecting the boats for hire. After negotiating a price with about half dozen captains, we decided on a medium size felucca (a traditional - engineless - Nile sailing vessel, dating back to the time of the Pharaohs).

Once we were underway, I showed the captain pictures of BlueTopaz and explained that I was her captain and Teri was the mate. He must have been impressed because, he asked if we would like to sail his vessel. I gladly accepted and Teri and I had a memorable afternoon, actually sailing a felucca on the Nile.

An Experience That Forever Changed Our Worldview

The main reason for our trip to Guatemala was to visit the Mayan ruins at Tikal and Yaxhá. As part of our preparation, Teri researched local guides. We wanted someone with not only a knowledge of the region but also a connection to its’ history. Teri selected Roxy Ortiz, archealogist and guide, not only because of her exceptional recommendations but, because she was born in and has devoted much of her life to research and conservation of the area.

Roxy picked us up at our hotel at 3:45 AM, for a twenty mile drive to the Tikal National Park, followed by a half-mile hike through the jungle to the city site. Our objective was to watch the sunrise from the top of a temple mount at the heart of Tikal. From the top of a temple, at sun rise, all we could see was a fog shrouded jungle from horizon to horizon.

To a chorus of howler monkeys, the rising sun began to melt away the fog and slowly the city emerged from the jungle. Surrounded by the ruins of this ancient Mayan city, Roxy described the evolution of a culture that lasted longer than the Roman Empire - it’s rise, flower and fall. The experience, forever changed our view of civilization and the world we live in.

An Unplanned (romantic) Adventure

We set off for an afternoon visit to the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Incapirca in Ecuador. Noon found us boarding a bus for a 50 mile, hour and a half ride up the mountain. Shortly after arriving at the site, we discovered that the last bus returning to Cuenca, was the one we had just arrived on. Adding insult to injury, it was leaving in twenty minutes. Snap decision - we decided to spend the night at the ruins.

A number of inquiries lead us on a half mile hike up a hill, to a remote Ecuadorian mountain hacienda, where we booked in with only the clothes on our backs. After settling in, we had a dinner of local fare and spent a romantic evening in a beautifully tended garden, gazing up at an unbelievably clear Andean sky. The stars were so clear and bright it felt like we were standing in space. At 10,400 feet in the Andes, the only heat in our room was from an immense wood burning fireplace. The staff brought hot water bottles to warm the bed. We fell asleep snuggled together in a enormous Andean bed. Taking advantage of this serendipitous situation treated us to one of our most romantic adventures.